If they're available, use them! Once you've gotten the backlash set, then check the pattern. The gears should be marked for all the proper settings as they are lapped together at specific settings when made. You are using a dial indicator to set that aren't you? IIRC, the stock setting is around. The bearings need to be preloaded also prior to setting the backlash.
#Pinion depth gauge harbor freight install#
Once you've gotten the pinion set, install the ring gear. If your diff had shims on it originally, use them as a starting point. It may mean pulling the pinion housing out and reshiming several times if you don't get a good pattern on your ring gear. It's much handier because you usually only have to make the adjustment once or twice, and it's set. You take a measurement from it to the top of the pinion gear and you can calculate the proper pinion depth and the necessary shim thickness. Ford has a special tool that bolts in place of the ring gear carrier. Once that's done you can install the pinion housing in the main carrier. A dial type torque wrench is MUCH easier to use in order to check this. Check the specs on what preload should be (the amount of torque necessary to rotate the pinion in it's housing). IMHO this is the single biggest pain in the rear when setting up gears. Solution? Take out the sleeve, install another and start over! DO NOT just back it off and try again with the same sleeve, it's already crushed more than it should be if you over torqued it. Don't get carried away or you'll over torque it and then the preload will be too high. Others have already posted some good info on what it takes to do this. The sleeve is crushed through torque (LOTS of torque!), on the pinion nut. The pinion should be installed in the pinion housing WITH a crush sleeve. Pinion depth is established through shims under the pinion housing. It's main purpose though is for preloading the pinion gear.
The purpose of crush sleeve has NOTHING to do with setting pinion depth. Now on to straightening things out a little. I'm not trying to be an a$$ about it, but it's an absolute necessity! Can you afford another ring and pinion? They're more expensive than a torque wrench. First however, if you're trying to set up the rear without a torque wrench then you're begging for it to fail! I know you said you couldn't afford one, so be it. It is so much easier doing it on jack stands or on the fixture I built for my engine stand than crawling under a car to set one up if you don't have a hoist to lift the car.It seems there are a few misunderstandings about setting the gears up. I was the go to guy to set them up and charged $ 150.00 if they brought me a clean rear end to set up When I was dirt tracking most of the pure stock and hobby stock GM cars used a 10 bolt rear. Once I get my desired pattern I remove my set up bearings and press on the new ones. Without the tool I have a set of honed bearings to use for setup. Just read the gauge and install the shims and then set the back lash. The tool makes setting up a 10 bolt or a 12 bolt or an 8.8 Ford a 15 minute job once you learn how the tool works. The pinion depth tool is nice, but the $ 800 price tag for the OTC tool is pricey unless you work at a Govt shop where the budget for equipment is ridiculous. I have been to the GM school for those types of rear ends. Having setup hundreds of those type rear ends in my years as a GM line mechanic and as a fleet mechanic for the Govt.
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